CARBON MONOXIDE A HIDDEN HAZARD

What is Carbon Monoxide?
Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless, tasteless poisonous gas. When inhaled, it readily enters the bloodstream ultimately depriving the heart and brain of oxygen. Signs of CO poisoning include fatigue, headaches, dizziness, nausea, confusion and irritability. At lower levels of exposure, CO poison is often mistaken for the flu.

Who is at Risk?
Everyone is at risk, but the effects of CO exposure can vary greatly from person to person depending on age, overall health and the concentration and length of exposure. Infants, children, senior citizens and people with heart or lung problems are especially susceptible to CO poisoning.

House Diagram

Where Does Carbon Monoxide Come From?
CO is a by-product of the incomplete combustion of fossil fuels such as natural or liquefied petroleum (LP) gas, kerosene, oil, gasoline, wood and coal. Sources of CO in the home include heating systems, kitchen ranges and ovens, clothes dryers, water heaters, fireplaces and stoves. Other possible sources include motor vehicles, gas-powered tools and generators, and charcoal grills.

If the burners on heating systems and other equipment are properly adjusted and maintained, adequate air for combustion is provided, and the venting system is working properly, the likelihood of CO is reduced. But if burners are poorly adjusted, there is no combustion air, and/or the venting is faulty, lethal CO levels can develop, especially in a tightly-sealed house.

Starting a car while in a closed garage should never be done; but even with the door open there may be enough residual CO to seep into the house. Cooking with a gas range/oven also contributes to indoor CO levels. Ideally, external venting should be provided for the range to minimize the chance of a build-up of carbon monoxide.

Reducing the Hazard
To minimize CO concerns, all fuel-burning systems and venting provisions should be checked annually by a qualified professional, particularly when there are signs of system damage or other potential concerns,. It is also generally recommended that at least one CO alarm be installed in homes with fuel-burning appliances, fireplaces or attached garages. Specific placement guidelines vary, but sleeping areas are the first locations to consider. Additional units can be located in other areas for added protection.

CO Alarms
CO DetectorWhen purchasing a CO alarm, look for an Underwriters Laboratories (UL) listing on the label. Follow manufacturer installation and maintenance guidelines. Replace batteries at least annually and replace older units, as recommended by the manufacturer (typically when 5 to 7 years old). Also, when considering CO detector placement, don’t forget the need for regular testing of smoke/fire detectors and fire extinguishers.

What to Do if a Carbon Monoxide Detector/Alarm Goes Off?
Never ignore a sounding CO alarm. A CO alarm may indicate elevated levels of CO in the home, even if no one is experiencing symptoms. What needs to be done when an alarm sounds depends on whether or not anyone is feeling ill or obvious signs of a carbon monoxide source are present.

If no one is feeling ill:

  • Turn off all appliances and sources of combustion (e.g., furnace and fireplace).
  • Ventilate the house with fresh air by opening doors and windows.
  • Reset the alarm.
  • Call a qualified professional to investigate the source of the possible CO buildup before starting up any CO producing equipment.
  • Realize that the source of CO may be outside your house or apartment.

If illness is a factor or an alarm continues after possible sources of CO have been turned off:

  • Evacuate all occupants immediately.
  • Determine how many occupants are ill and determine their symptoms.
  • Call 911 or your local emergency number and when relaying information, include the number of people feeling ill.
  • Do not allow anyone to re-enter the home until it has been checked for CO or other hazards.
  • Call a qualified professional to repair or correct the source of the CO.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright ©  DBR Franchising, LLC

FALL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

 
Fall

Many areas have already had a taste of fall weather, and it’s not far behind for most others. Now is the time to make sure your house and heating system are ready for winter. Here is a brief checklist to guide you through some basic tasks before it is too late:

GROUNDS

  • Check window wells, dry wells and storm drains for debris or blockage.
  • Repair any driveway cracks and/or heaved or settled walkways.
  • Trim all trees and shrubs that are too close to the house.
  • Check (ideally during a rainstorm) for rainwater drainage away foundation.
  • Clean and put summer furnishings away.
  • Drain and store garden hoses.

EXTERIOR SURFACES

  • Check weathertightness of all exterior surfaces and components.
  • Check for deterioration of painted or finished areas. If too late for a full paint job, prime and touch-up bare wood surfaces.
  • Caulk and seal all joints in siding, around windows and doors.
  • Check and seal any foundation cracks.
  • Improve weatherstripping at exterior doors and windows as needed.
  • Reset storms and screens where required.
  • Look for any signs of insect or pest activity around the foundation and at wood components close to the ground.

ROOF (Use binoculars or hire a professional.)

  • Check for loose, damaged or missing roofing.
  • Check eave areas for signs of moisture build-up or damage.
  • Check the condition of chimneys.
  • Check flashings for signs of lifting or damage and repair as needed.
  • Check and clean all gutters (eavestroughs) and downspouts.

ATTIC

  • Check ventilation openings for nests or other blockage.
  • Check the position and condition of insulation for uniform coverage.
  • Look for any signs of excessive moisture or heat buildup.

INTERIOR ROOMS

  • Check all areas for signs of roof or plumbing leakage.
  • Have any fireplaces or wood stoves and flues checked and professionally cleaned.
  • Reset automatic timers for the change in daylight hours.
  • Check all smoke/carbon monoxide detectors. Replace batteries if over a year old.
  • Test Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (GFCI’s) using built-in test buttons.

HEATING/COOLING SYSTEMS

  • Clean all elements of the cooling system.
  • Remove (or winterize) room air conditioners.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions for the maintenance of your heating system.
  • Change or clean heating system filters on warm air systems (now and regularly).
  • Check heating and cooling systems for any evidence of water leaks.
  • If present, clean and test the humidifier.
  • Have your heating system serviced annually by a qualified heating serviceperson before the heating season to keep it functioning efficiently and properly.

PLUMBING

  • Drain exterior water lines and open taps (in cold areas).
  • Insulate water lines that are subject to freezing.
  • Check the condition and temperature setting of the water heater. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the temperature setting.
  • Check the plumbing system and fixtures for any evidence of water leaks or blocked drains.
  • Confirm proper operation of any sump pumps and free flow of the drain line.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright ©  DBR Franchising, LLC

MANIFOLD PLUMBING SYSTEMS

MANIFOLD PLUMBING SYSTEMS

 
Manifold

A new method for supplying hot and cold water to plumbing fixtures in homes is rapidly gaining greater acceptance by home builders and homeowners. Rather than the traditional method of running branch lines with many fittings and valves to each plumbing fixture, a manifold plumbing system has a central point for hot and cold water distribution, with individual lines running off of it. Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) piping is typically used with manifold systems.

PEX is a high-temperature, flexible, corrosion-resistant plastic pipe–not to be confused with polybutylene piping (PB). It is less labor intensive to install and makes use of mechanical connections, which eliminates the need for soldering. Its flexibility also makes it easier to install in both existing and new construction. PEX systems often stand out by the dark red and blue colored piping used by some manufacturers for the hot and cold water respectively.

Inappropriate comparisons of PEX to polybutylene piping (PB), which experienced problems with early generation systems in the 1970s and 1980s, has been somewhat of an obstacle to PEX’s general acceptance; but not all plastics are the same. While there have been problems with some fittings used for PEX pipe they generally have been more reliable than those used for the early PB systems. Also, current testing and installation requirements for PEX are much more stringent than when PB piping was first accepted and installed in housing.

While its use may still be locally restricted, it is currently approved for residential water supply systems in all model plumbing and mechanical codes across the United States and Canada. Expect to see more PEX piping in the future, particularly in new homes.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright © DBR Franchising, LLC

MOISTURE AND MOLD PREVENTION

When water leaks or spills occur indoors - act quickly. If wet or damp materials are removed or allowed to dry out within 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.

Mold

To avoid conditions that lead to mold:

  • Repair or reseal roof flashings when damaged or worn.
  • Clean gutters regularly.
  • Make sure the ground slopes away from your house foundation.
  • Pipe downspout water discharge points away from the foundation.
  • Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed.
  • Check the condition of all water piping, fittings, and fixtures periodically.
  • Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes, dryers to the outside.
  • Keep indoor humidity low. Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
  • Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever showering or cooking for extended periods.
  • Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical.
  • Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
  • Add a moisture barrier over dirt floors in crawlspaces.
  • Make sure attics and crawlspaces are vented properly.
  • If you see condensation or moisture collecting on surfaces, act quickly to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright © DBR Franchising, LLC

STORMS AND YOUR HOME INSURANCE COVERAGE

Following a disaster, many homeowners are stunned to discover their insurance doesn’t cover everything they lost – and sometimes doesn’t cover any of their losses.  Now is the time to fine-tune your coverage -- before a disaster strikes.  Many changes don’t take effect until after a 30-day waiting period.

 

Standard homeowner policies do not cover flood damage from rising water, whether it’s coastal flooding from a hurricane’s wind-whipped storm surge or inland flooding from heavy rains.  Check to see if you live in a flood-prone area.  If so, ask your insurance agent about the need for flood insurance.  Some homeowners may qualify for the National Flood Insurance Program, depending on their home’s location.

 

Not all policies cover damage caused by wind or hail.  Even if you are not in an area frequented by high wind and regular hail storms, you may want to consider this coverage.  Your insurance agent can provide information on your current coverage as well as your options. 

 

Standard policies usually limit payments on valuables such as jewelry, silverware, antiques, boats and guns, and computers. So if you’re a collector or have high value possessions, you may need to get a special endorsement to ensure reasonable protection.

 

If you live in a condominium, find out what coverage your condominium association provides.  You will still need your own homeowner’s policy to cover any damage that may occur to your unit and its contents.  Pay attention to your deductible or out-of-pocket expenses.  Most policies have a higher deductible for hurricane damage.

 

Does your policy cover the replacement cost or depreciated value of your possessions?  Most policies cover the “actual cash value,” or depreciated value, of personal belongings, which means you won’t get what you paid for your furniture, electronics and clothing if they’re ruined.  It costs more to insure them for their replacement value, but you’ll have an easier time getting back on your feet.

 

If your home and possessions have increased in value or you’ve made improvements to your property in recent years, check your coverage limits.  Consider increasing your coverage if the policy doesn’t cover the current value of your home and its contents. Many policies make automatic adjustments as replacement costs increase; even so, you need to make sure your policy keeps pace. 

 

Make an itemized inventory of your belongings, including costs, purchase dates and serial numbers.  Attach receipts to the inventory sheet.  Your insurance company may require proof of the cost of any item for which you make a claim.  Dated photos or videos of your possessions are also a good idea.

 

Keep a copy of insurance records in a safe deposit box or with a relative or friend.  These records should include your insurance policy, inventory records and the phone numbers for your agent or insurance company for reporting claims.  Upon receiving an evacuation notice, you should take insurance records stored at home with you.

 

If your property is damaged, hire only licensed and reputable workers, preferably from within your community.  Beware of fly-by-night repair businesses that request payment before the work is done.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright ©  DBR Franchising, LLC

Spring Maintenance Checklist

SPRING MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

 
House

GROUNDS

  • Check condition of driveways and walks.
  • Check window wells, dry wells and storm drains for blockage.
  • Check fencing conditions and gate operation.
  • Check retaining walls for cracks, bulges and leaning.
  • Check all landscaping; trim all bushes and trees.
  • Check all out-buildings, porches and patios.
  • Check for proper grading and drainage throughout property.
  • Check lawn sprinkler system operation.
  • Check all equipment in preparation of pool opening.
  • Check (during rainstorm) for drainage away from foundation.

SIDING AND CHIMNEYS

  • Check all surfaces for damage or deterioration.
  • Check caulking at all joints.
  • Treat or paint worn or exposed wood components.
  • Check condition of masonry chimneys and vents.
  • Check foundation for settlement, cracks and spalling.

WINDOWS AND DOORS

  • Check for damaged screens or broken glass.
  • Check weatherstripping, caulking, and window putty.
  • Check for frame decay or damage.
  • Clean and install screens.

ROOFS

  • Check for loose, damaged or missing roofing.
  • Check fascia and soffit for signs of leaks/moisture build-up.
  • Check all flashings for fit and seals.
  • Check television antenna or satellite dish mounting.
  • Check and clean all gutters (eaves troughs) and downspouts.
  • Clean fungi or algae from roof surfaces.

PORCH AND PATIO

  • Check all wooden supports and railing components.
  • Check flooring for wear or damage.
  • Apply preservative to wood decking and components.
  • Seal patios at foundation.

INSECT INFESTATION

  • Check for signs of termite, ant or other insect activity.
  • Check for insect damage.
  • Arrange for treatment or repair.

INTERIOR AREAS

  • Check attic, ceilings and walls for evidence of leaks.
  • Check ventilation openings for nests, or other blockage.
  • Check condition of all painted or finished walls and trim.
  • Check carpet and flooring for wear or damage.
  • Check condition of all stairs and railings.
  • Check condition and operation of all windows and doors.
  • Test smoke/fire alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.

SLAB/FOUNDATION

  • Check for cracks or breaks in wall.
  • Check for evidence of water infiltration or dampness.
  • Check for decaying sills and window frames.
  • Check for signs of termite, ant or other insect activity.
  • Check for changes in framing conditions.
  • Check crawlspace ventilation, insulation, and vapor retarders.
  • Test, clean and lubricate sump pump.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

  • Assess power distribution for overloads issues.
  • Check condition of incoming service wire and supports.
  • Test circuit breakers and label all circuits at panel.
  • Test arc-fault and ground-fault circuit-interrupters (regularly).
  • Check circuits for over-fusing.
  • Check all receptacles and switches.
  • Check operation of vent and/or attic fans.

HEATING/COOLING SYSTEMS

  • Follow manufacturer instructions for HVAC systems.
  • Inspect and install room air conditioners.
  • Clean all serviceable elements of heating system.
  • Change or clean heating system filter (regularly).
  • Check venting systems for corrosion and leaks.
  • Clean and de-energize humidifier.
  • Check and lubricate attic fan.

PLUMBING SYSTEM

  • De-winterize and check exterior faucets.
  • Check well and components.
  • Check septic tanks and systems.
  • Check water and waste piping for leaks.
  • Check hot water supply temperature.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions for water heater.

KITCHEN/BATHROOMS

  • Check condition and operation of all appliances.
  • Clean and change range fan filters.
  • Check all toilet flush mechanisms.
  • Check and repair all leaking faucets and valves.
  • Caulk and grout tile at tubs and showers.
  • Clean aerators and shower head.

Does your home need a check up? Contact your local HouseMaster office and schedule a home inspection to help you organize your maintenance needs.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright ©  DBR Franchising, LLC

SPRING ROOF MAINTENANCE

The cold weather and storms of the winter season can wreak havoc on the exterior of a home and the surrounding property. Sometimes it isn’t that there is significant damage, but simply the fact that it may have been several months since you last paid attention to or attempted any outdoor maintenance.

Now is the time to do a winter-end check to make sure everything is in order and your home is ready to withstand those spring-time showers and the pending heat of summer.

roof

While all exterior areas should be checked periodically, one area that typically requires special attention at the end of the winter season is the roof. To identify possible roofing concerns, look for:

  • Ceiling stains – A possible warning sign that your roof system needs repair or replacement. If localized, it may be an isolated point of damage or a flashing leak. Ceiling stains can also be associated with excessive attic moisture and/or ice dam conditions, which may require additional attic ventilation and/or insulation to prevent a recurrence. If there are stains on lower level ceilings, a plumbing leak could be the cause.

  • Loose or missing shingles – Any loose or missing shingles should be repaired or replaced immediately to avoid additional leakage and damage to the roof deck or interior of your home.

  • Loose, lifted or cracked flashing – This is the sheet metal or other type membrane found at the base of chimneys and roof penetrations. Damaged flashing should be repaired or replaced to prevent leakage. Any open gaps should be sealed with roof cement.

  • Lifted or curled shingles – This may be an indication the roof is worn and at or near the end of its service life, or, at the very least, makes it conducive to wind damage. If found just in an isolated area, spot replacement may be possible, but if widespread, get a professional opinion on the roof’s condition.

  • Heavy granule buildup in gutters or at base of downspouts – The granules on roof shingles gradually wear away to the point where the underlying material is exposed over large areas. Once this happens the rate of shingle deterioration accelerates. If granule loss is excessive, it may indicate aging shingles that need replacement.

Any roof maintenance check should also include gutter cleaning. This is an areas often not paid attention to until an overflow creates problems. Gutters need to be checked year-round to help avoid expensive water damage to the siding or house structure. Extensions or splash blocks at downspouts help divert water away from the house, avoiding soil erosion and infiltration through basement or crawlspace walls.

If you have questions on your roof system, consider utilizing the services of a professional home inspector or qualified roofing contractor to determine conditions.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Pros and Cons of Duct Cleaning

PROS AND CONS OF DUCT CLEANING

 

According to the (NADCA), National Air Duct Cleaners Association, a professional association based in Washington, D.C., air duct cleaning is a buyer-beware service. Some companies promoting duct cleaning may be either bait and switch operations or companies that do inferior jobs with unprofessional equipment.

Any professional cleaner would question a company that employ only shop-vac sized machines with a single 2-inch hose. To do a good job, powerful machines mounted in specially equipped vehicles with varying types of hoses and attachments will be needed in most cases to adequately reach all duct areas.

But even if the technician is prepared, the above information begs the question: “Is air duct cleaning really worthwhile?” You can check some of your own ducts with a mirror and a flashlight. Unscrew several of your wall or floor vents and, using your mirror, look into the ducts.

Duct

If there aren’t any large deposits of dust, dirt or mold, or if no one in your home suffers allergies or asthma, having air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary, according to advice provided by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Also, just because you have dirty return grilles doesn’t mean you have dirty ducts. It’s normal for dust-laden air to be pulled through the grates leaving telltale black streaks that can often be easily vacuumed or cleaned at the return.

The NADCA notes that ducts are more likely to need cleaning under the following circumstances:

  • The home has been remodeled.
  • Water has damaged the home.
  • There are four-leg pets.
  • Someone smokes.
  • Your carpeting is old.

According to industry experts, in cases where there are truly dirty ducts in a 2,000-square foot house, duct cleaners may fill three grocery sacks with dirt and debris. Expect to pay $250-500 for a typical home’s duct cleaning by a qualified professional. Larger homes with a more extensive duct system will cost proportionately more.

If duct cleaning is done improperly, or needlessly, the outcome can do more harm than good. Disturbing a basically intact and inert dust layer and then not removing the residue creates air borne contaminants that might not otherwise have been a problem. Homeowners should seek the advice and information on the pros and cons of duct cleaning before hiring a contractor.

The EPA advises that a professional cleaning should include:

  • Opening duct access points to allow the entire system to be inspected and cleaned.
  • Use of only high-efficiency particle (HEPA) air vacuuming equipment.
  • Protection of the carpeting and household furnishings during cleaning.
  • Use of well-controlled brushing equipment with powerful vacuums to dislodge dust and other particles.
  • Taking care to protect ductwork including sealing and re-insulating any access holes.

Fore more information on duct cleaning visit the EPA website: www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at http://www.housemaster.com/.

Copyright ©  DBR Franchising, LLC

Stimulus Bill First Time Home Buyer Tax Credit
A first time homebuyer tax credit has been signed into law as part of the Stimulus Package that was created by President Obama. There are many questions as well as many misconceptions that are floating around regarding this legislation In this month's article I am going to try to clear up some of those questions.

The tax credit in this stimulus plan is for first-time homebuyers only. The Bill had several changes throughout the negotiation process in Congress, some of which included all home buyers. In the final Bill the tax credit applies only to first-time home buyers. You may ask who qualifies as a first-time homebuyer and the answer is any family unit who has not owned a home as a Principle Residence within the past three years.

The tax credit in the 2009 stimulus package does not have to be repaid. This differs from the first-time home buyer tax credit that was in place in late 2008. In the 2008 plan, the credit was an interest free loan and it had to be repaid within 15 years. In both plans, the home buyer must keep this home as their primary residence for at least 3 years or they may face recapture of the tax credit amount.

In the 2009 tax credit, the amount of credit that you receive is equal to 10% of the purchase price with a maximum credit amount of $8,000. There is a distinct difference between tax credits versus tax deductions. In a tax credit, the credit is a dollar for dollar amount that is paid against the taxes that are owed. A tax deduction is a reduction in the amount of gross income by that amount. Basically, the credit is post tax and the deduction is pretax. A bonus in this year's tax credit is that the credit is refundable. Meaning, if you do not owe taxes larger than the amount of credit that you are receiving, then you will receive a check for the difference.

Another common question is the time frame in which you must purchase a home to qualify for this tax credit. You must purchase a principle residence between January 1, 2009 and December 1, 2009. If you purchased a home in 2008, then you will be subject to the laws which were in place at that time.

Is there a maximum amount of income that you can make to qualify for this tax credit? The answer is yes. If you are a single tax payer and your Modified Adjusted Gross Income is less than $75,000 then you qualify. If you are married and file jointly then the total Modified Adjusted Gross Income must be less than $150,000. There are some provisions for partial tax credit if you make more than the amounts listed above.

If you would like to research more information on your own, one of the best websites that I have found to help answer questions regarding this tax credit is http://www.federalhousingtaxcredit.com/ . This site has been created by the National Association of Home Builders. Contact your tax advisor for specific advice on how this credit may apply to you.

This information is for general guidance only. The information in this article does not constitute the provision of legal advice, tax advice, accounting services, investment advice, or professional consulting of any kind nor should it be construed as such. The information provided herein should not be used as a substitute for consultation with professional tax, accounting, legal, or other competent advisers.
Fall House Maintenance

FALL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

 
Fall

Many areas have already had a taste of fall weather, and it’s not far behind for most others. Now is the time to make sure your house and heating system are ready for winter. Here is a brief checklist to guide you through some basic tasks before it is too late:

GROUNDS

  • Check window wells, dry wells and storm drains for debris or blockage.
  • Repair any driveway cracks and/or heaved or settled walkways.
  • Trim all trees and shrubs that are too close to the house.
  • Check (ideally during a rainstorm) for rainwater drainage away foundation.
  • Clean and put summer furnishings away.
  • Drain and store garden hoses.

EXTERIOR SURFACES

  • Check weathertightness of all exterior surfaces and components.
  • Check for deterioration of painted or finished areas. If too late for a full paint job, prime and touch-up bare wood surfaces.
  • Caulk and seal all joints in siding, around windows and doors.
  • Check and seal any foundation cracks.
  • Improve weatherstripping at exterior doors and windows as needed.
  • Reset storms and screens where required.
  • Look for any signs of insect or pest activity around the foundation and at wood components close to the ground.

ROOF (Use binoculars or hire a professional.)

  • Check for loose, damaged or missing roofing.
  • Check eave areas for signs of moisture build-up or damage.
  • Check the condition of chimneys.
  • Check flashings for signs of lifting or damage and repair as needed.
  • Check and clean all gutters (eavestroughs) and downspouts.

ATTIC

  • Check ventilation openings for nests or other blockage.
  • Check the position and condition of insulation for uniform coverage.
  • Look for any signs of excessive moisture or heat buildup.

INTERIOR ROOMS

  • Check all areas for signs of roof or plumbing leakage.
  • Have any fireplaces or wood stoves and flues checked and professionally cleaned.
  • Reset automatic timers for the change in daylight hours.
  • Check all smoke/carbon monoxide detectors. Replace batteries if over a year old.
  • Test Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (GFCI’s) using built-in test buttons.

HEATING/COOLING SYSTEMS

  • Clean all elements of the cooling system.
  • Remove (or winterize) room air conditioners.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions for the maintenance of your heating system.
  • Change or clean heating system filters on warm air systems (now and regularly).
  • Check heating and cooling systems for any evidence of water leaks.
  • If present, clean and test the humidifier.
  • Have your heating system serviced annually by a qualified heating serviceperson before the heating season to keep it functioning efficiently and properly.

PLUMBING

  • Drain exterior water lines and open taps (in cold areas).
  • Insulate water lines that are subject to freezing.
  • Check the condition and temperature setting of the water heater. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the temperature setting.
  • Check the plumbing system and fixtures for any evidence of water leaks or blocked drains.
  • Confirm proper operation of any sump pumps and free flow of the drain line.
1031 Exchange

1031 exchange can be a useful form of tax deferment.  It has required steps that must be taken to qualify for the tax deferment.   Click on the link for valuable information about 1031 exchange.

http://www.homebuyersrep.us/1031_Exchange/page_2104838.html
Short Sales

Be informed.  Understand real estate short sales.  Click on the link for valuable information about short sales.

http://www.homebuyersrep.us/Short_Sales/page_2096191.html

NC International Terminal Moves Forward
NC International Terminal Project Moves Forward
N.C. State Ports Authority chooses CenterPoint as leading candidate to develop the North Carolina International Terminal
       
The North Carolina State Ports Authority and CenterPoint Properties of Oak Brook, Ill., have made a key step toward the eventual development of the proposed North Carolina International Terminal in Brunswick County. The two organizations have come to terms on a predevelopment agreement for the project.

The agreement covers issues to be addressed in the first step of the process and signals that CenterPoint is the leading candidate to become the private development partner for the container terminal.

“Partnering with CenterPoint to get these questions answered brings North Carolina a step closer to moving forward on construction of this project, one that will place us at the center of global shipping in the U.S.,” said Carl J. Stewart Jr., chairman of the N.C. State Ports Authority Board of Directors. “The benefits of this project for our state will be profound in terms of the economy, jobs and the quality of life for thousands of people.”

The International Terminal will enable North Carolina to capitalize on the rapidly growing demands of international trade with the U.S., which is projected to double between 2005 and 2020. It will increase the state’s competitiveness for international trade, as well as for manufacturing and distribution centers. When fully operational, it is estimated the terminal will directly and indirectly support more than 475, 000 jobs and result in $1.2 billion in state and local tax revenue.

“Global trade is growing, yet domestic ports will be unable to meet projected demands. Also, new ships coming on line are larger than most East Coast ports can accommodate,” said Ports Authority CEO Thomas J. Eagar. “The proposed terminal, situated near the mouth of the Cape Fear River at the Atlantic Ocean, will be well equipped to handle the increased demand and larger ships coming from foreign ports.”

During the term of the predevelopment agreement, CenterPoint will provide the Ports Authority with answers needed to determine if the company will be the project's long-term partner.

CenterPoint Properties is a real estate investment firm specializing in the development and management of industrial real estate and related rail and port infrastructure. The company has demonstrated success in developing, financing, and operating large-scale and transformative intermodal facilities in the Midwest and is expanding with additional projects around the nation.  They also have a sound track record in working with these communities to create logistical hubs that capitalize on national and global shipping demands.

“The goal of this agreement is to determine not only how this project will come together and operate, but also how the Terminal can be an integral part of the community and a good neighbor,” said Paul Fisher, president for CenterPoint. “The location has great potential. Now we have to make sure we uncover all possible needs and impacts, and present a plan to the Authority that meets their requirements for a possible partner. We believe this is the beginning of a long and fruitful relationship that will benefit CenterPoint, the N.C. State Ports Authority and the people of North Carolina.”

CenterPoint's studies will review the existing site, and development and operational needs, and examine potential impacts the project could have. They will also focus on public safety,and rail and highway capacity. As part of the review, CenterPoint and the Ports Authority will look at how best to address and minimize impacts to the surrounding community.

“The International Terminal represents a once in a lifetime opportunity for North Carolina,” said Stewart. “We can reap the economic benefits of global trade and still preserve our coastal communities and their citizens’ quality of life. If we work together it doesn’t have to be a choice of one or the other.”

On the Web (+printable version)
http://www.ncports.com/

ABOUT CENTERPOINT PROPERTIES:
CenterPoint is an owner and developer of industrial real estate in metropolitan Chicago and other gateway markets.  With its affiliates, CenterPoint owns and/or manages more than 42 million square feet of property and owns or controls an additional 9,732 acres of land for future development.  CenterPoint is a subsidiary of CalEast Global Logistics LLC, a leading investor in logistics warehouse and related real estate whose members include the California Public Employees’ Retirement System (CalPERS) and LaSalle Investment Management.

Keep Your Drains Clear

KEEP YOUR DRAINS CLEAR

 

Eliminating all possible causes for a sluggish or blocked drain may not be possible, but there are certain things that can be done to reduce potential problems. The buildup of soap scum, grease and hair in drains occurs with normal life activities and is almost inevitable; but preventing the introduction of other objects that can contribute to blockage will go a long way toward ensuring your drains flow freely.

Toilet

Aside from the inconvenience or downright horrors of a blocked or overflowing drain, there is a monetary consideration. Many drain and sewer cleaning companies now have flat minimum rates for cleaning drains regardless of the cause; so whether a blockage is due to a clump of toilet paper or an errant tennis ball, it could cost you a surprising sum.

Some tips and suggestions:

  • Keep the strainer or drain stopper in place at all sink, bathtub and shower drains.
  • Keep all small objects away from the toilet; toothbrushes, and jewelry can quickly disappear forever - or get stuck in a drain.
  • Keep your eye out for small children – a toilet bowl full of water is just one more play object to them. Anything and everything touched can end up in a toilet. And the excitement of seeing it flush away only adds to the danger. The bathroom should be off limits to young children. If the door can’t be locked, at least install a toilet seat lock to prevent toilet access.
  • Only flush toilet paper; even if paper towels or baby wipes make their way down the drain, they can potentially get hung up on tree roots or other protrusions further along the drain or sewer. Beware, commercially available wipes may be advertised as flushable, but that doesn’t mean they won’t get stuck somewhere else in the system. It is often best to dispose of these wipes in another manner.
  • Personal feminine hygiene products should not be flushed. Once again, while they may be advertised as flushable, they often get hung up downstream and are a major contributing factor in drain blockage.
  • If you live in an older neighborhood, chances are many of the buried sewer lines have settled or shifted over the years or have been infiltrated by tree roots. Check with the local authorities on any problems known to exist in your neighborhood.
  • Fine roots can infiltrate through even small cracks or gaps in a sewer line, creating an almost impenetrable obstruction. During dry or drought periods, root infiltration only increases as they seek out any source of water.
  • If root infiltration or other sewer line problems are known to exist or are suspected, consider pro-active sewer cleaning every few years. It may be costly, but will be a lot less than having to clean up after a sewer backup.
  • Video equipment is now available to inspect drain and sewer lines that otherwise are inaccessible without excavation or other invasive work. When problems occur and the cause is unknown and/or a recommendation is made to replace a line or section of a line, consider video imaging before attempting more expensive work.
  • Clean out strainers and drains periodically. Remove mechanical drain stoppers to clean out down below. If using commercially available cleaners, carefully read all package instructions and warnings. Many of these products can be harmful to your fixtures or plumbing system, or you. Consider environmentally safer alternatives. Even a plunger can produce good results when there is a minor drain blockage.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright ©  HMA Franchise Systems, Inc.

Preventive Maintenance Pays For Itself

 

Consumers should remember that maintenance costs need to be considered when purchasing a home. All homes require constant care. General estimates indicate that every home will require between 1 percent and 3 percent of the home's value in annual maintenance costs in order to keep it in good condition, and this figure does not necessarily include major or emergency repairs. But since you already own your home - let’s talk about how to create some best practices when it comes to maintaining your home.

House

The ongoing maintenance of a home is a significant contributor to holding or increasing its value. All homeowners should plan a solid preventive maintenance schedule, so potential problems can be fixed before they become more costly and damaging. Quite often when we inspect homes, many of the defects we find would have been preventable with some routine monitoring and smaller repairs. But left unchecked, minor concerns grow into more significant problems.

There are many other benefits for current and potential homeowners when they incorporate preventive maintenance into their annual planning. Preventive maintenance:

  • Avoids expensive emergency repairs: Contractor fees rise in proportion to the urgency and the hour of the service call.
  • Saves money and aggravation: Repairs planned for completion during off-peak times are less expensive and less stressful.
  • Minimizes homeowner insurance premiums: Correcting deficiencies before they lead to catastrophic failure and a possible insurance claim will keep premiums reasonable.
  • Eliminates costly consequential damage: When major home components, like a roof, fail, the damage to home interiors and furnishings can be substantial.
  • Homes in good condition sell at higher prices than neglected counterparts.

Every house is different, and maintenance needed at different times of the year will vary. But for now, here is a Spring Maintenance Checklist to start your own preventive maintenance program.

Spring Maintenance Checklist

GROUNDS

  • Check condition of driveways and walks.
  • Check window wells, dry wells and storm drains for blockage.
  • Check fencing conditions and gate operation.
  • Check retaining walls for cracks, bulges and leaning.
  • Check all landscaping; trim all bushes and trees.
  • Check all out-buildings, porches and patios.
  • Check for proper grading and drainage throughout property.
  • Check lawn sprinkler system operation.
  • Check all equipment in preparation of pool opening.
  • Check (during rainstorm) for drainage away from foundation.

SIDING AND CHIMNEYS

  • Check all surfaces for damage or deterioration.
  • Check caulking at all joints.
  • Treat or paint worn or exposed wood components.
  • Check condition of masonry chimneys and vents.
  • Check foundation for settlement, cracks and spalling.

WINDOWS AND DOORS

  • Check for damaged screens or broken glass.
  • Check weatherstripping, caulking, and window putty.
  • Check for frame decay or damage.
  • Clean and install screens.

ROOFS

  • Check for loose, damaged or missing roofing.
  • Check fascia and soffit for signs of leaks/moisture build-up.
  • Check all flashings for fit and seals.
  • Check television antenna or satellite dish mounting.
  • Check and clean all gutters (eavestroughs) and downspouts.
  • Clean fungi or algae from roof surfaces.

PORCH AND PATIO

  • Check all wooden supports and railing components.
  • Check flooring for wear or damage.
  • Apply preservative to wood decking and components.
  • Seal patios at foundation.

INSECT INFESTATION

  • Check for signs of termite, ant or other insect activity.
  • Check for insect damage.
  • Arrange for treatment or repair.

INTERIOR AREAS

  • Check attic, ceilings and walls for evidence of leaks.
  • Check ventilation openings for nests, or other blockage.
  • Check condition of all painted or finished walls and trim.
  • Check carpet and flooring for wear or damage.
  • Check condition of all stairs and railings.
  • Check condition and operation of all windows and doors.
  • Test smoke/fire alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.

SLAB/FOUNDATION

  • Check for cracks or breaks in wall.
  • Check for evidence of water infiltration or dampness.
  • Check for decaying sills and window frames.
  • Check for signs of termite, ant or other insect activity
  • Check for changes in framing conditions.
  • Check crawlspace ventilation, insulation, and vapor retarders.
  • Test, clean and lubricate sump pump.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

  • Assess power distribution for overloads issues.
  • Check condition of incoming service wire and supports.
  • Test circuit breakers and label all circuits at panel.
  • Test arc-fault and ground-fault circuit-interrupters (regularly).
  • Check circuits for over-fusing.
  • Check all receptacles and switches.
  • Check operation of vent and/or attic fans.

HEATING/COOLNG SYSTEMS

  • Follow manufacturer instructions for HVAC systems.
  • Inspect and install room air conditioners.
  • Clean all serviceable elements of heating system.
  • Change or clean heating system filter (regularly).
  • Check venting systems for corrosion and leaks.
  • Clean and de-energize humidifier.
  • Check and lubricate attic fan.

PLUMBING SYSTEM

  • De-winterize and check exterior faucets.
  • Check well and components.
  • Check septic tanks and systems.
  • Check water and waste piping for leaks.
  • Check hot water supply temperature.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions for water heater.

KITCHEN/BATHROOMS

  • Check condition and operation of all appliances.
  • Clean and change range fan filters.
  • Check all toilet flush mechanisms.
  • Check and repair all leaking faucets and valves.
  • Caulk and grout tile at tubs and showers.
  • Clean aerators and showerhead.

Click to here view HouseMaster’s Preventative Maintenance Checklist

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Copyright ©  HMA Franchise Systems, Inc.

More Posts Next page »