Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR®

Conserve Your Water

Now is the time to establish some basic water conservation measures to not only help save water, but also to cut down on the associated costs. A drought can occur at any time, although in many areas, the effects are greatest in the summer. It is estimated that every household could easily save 100-150 gallons of water each day if the following suggestions were implemented:

Don’t let faucets run continuously. Letting the water run when shaving, brushing teeth or rinsing the dishes is common practice, but an open faucet can allow 5 gallons to pass in as little as 2 minutes.
Use water-saving showerheads and faucets. High-flow showerheads can provide a water flow of 5 or more gallons a minute. Flow restriction devices can cut flow in half or more without reducing the water pressure.
Water your lawn and plants early in the day. This practice will reduce the loss of water due to evaporation. Late watering also reduces evaporation. During the summer, water your plants slowly and infrequently. Consider drip irrigation for garden areas to add water just where it is needed.
Check for drips and leaks. A dripping faucet can allow up to two gallons per hour to be wasted. Toilets are also prime suspects. To check a toilet, simply drop some food coloring into the tank (not the bowl) and wait 15 minutes before flushing. If colored water shows up in the bowl, you have a leak from the tank to the bowl.
Replace your old toilet. If your home was built before 1992 and the toilet has never been replaced, then it is very likely that you do not have a water-efficient 1.6 gallon per flush toilet. You can check the age of your toilets by looking at the date stamp inside the tank. Lift the lid and look at the back of the tank for the manufacturer's imprint of the make, model and date of manufacture. Old toilets are the largest water users in many homes, typically using 3 or more gallons per flush.
Replace old clothes washers. Next to old toilets, an old washing machine generally is the next largest water user in a home. New Energy Star™ rated washers use 35-50% less water and 50% less energy per load. You’ll have an upfront cost but a modern, energy efficient unit saves money on both water and energy bills.

Posted 30 July 10 10:20 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Announcements, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Home Buying, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

HOW SAFE IS YOUR GARAGE DOOR?

HOW SAFE IS YOUR GARAGE DOOR?

The garage door is typically the largest moving object in a home; and because of its size and weight, it must be operated with caution. While many homeowners are aware of the potential hazards related to automatic door openers, other components of a garage door also present potential risks.

Many standard overhead garage door parts can be dangerous if damaged, improperly installed or otherwise not in proper functioning order. To help ensure the safe use of their garage doors and avoid injury, homeowners should be familiar with the basic door components and know how they should be maintained.

Mounting Tracks and Hardware. While the rollers and cables help with door operation, if the tracks are not positioned properly and firmly attached to the structure, there is risk of the door coming off the track and falling from an overhead position. Rollers should be well lubricated and free-moving and the track should not be bent or distorted in any way. Friction marks are a sign of binding, which increases the possibility the door could get hung up. If substantial damage exists, the door should not be operated until repaired.

Corner Brackets. The corner brackets are the two brackets that are attached to the lower corners of the door. The cables that lift the garage door are typically attached to these brackets. Since these cables are under high tension, the brackets could disconnect and fly off in a potentially dangerous manner if loose or damaged.

Springs. Garage doors are typically balanced either by torsion springs or extension springs. A garage door that does not go up and down smoothly when manually operated probably has a defective or unbalanced spring system. Eventually, all springs will wear out and break. Any cables that are corroded, frayed or have loose strands may be in danger of breaking. Due to the high tension in the cables, any repairs or adjustments to springs should only be made by a qualified service company.

For safety, the extension springs can either be enclosed in a metal tube or a safety cable can be installed inside the extension spring. Either method can help contain the spring and prevent injury. Many areas now require these safety cables or spring enclosures on new installations.

Lift Handles and Pull Ropes. A lift handle or rope is typically attached to the garage door allowing manual door operation. If an automatic opener is attached to the door, lift handles or pull ropes that could easily snag on someone or something should be removed.

Panel Section Joints. As a safety precaution, never attempt to operate the door by placing fingers in the joint between sections. Many people have been injured attempting to close a door by placing their fingers in an open joint and pulling down on the door, thus pinching their fingertips. Some garage doors are now being equipped with finger-protecting joint covers.

Entrapment Protection. Residential garage door openers manufactured since the early 1990s should either have an external entrapment protection device, such as an “electric eye” which “sees” an object obstructing a door without actual contact with the object, or a door-edge sensor. The door-edge sensor acts much like the door edge sensor on elevator doors and reverses the door upward if it contacts an object.

A contact control is also needed to monitor the door for full closure. If it doesn’t close in a set time, it should reopen. Another option is a wall-mounted control that requires full hands-on operation while the door closes.

These safety features should be checked periodically following the door and opener manufacturer’s guidelines. Older automatic garage door openers without these modern safety features should be retrofitted or replaced for safety reasons.

Posted 26 June 10 06:48 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, For Sale, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

DRIVEWAY SEALCOATING

DRIVEWAY SEALCOATING

Periodically applying a sealcoat to an asphalt driveway will not only improve its appearance but will help it last longer. A sealcoat protects the driveway from the sun’s ultraviolet rays and helps prevent water from seeping through cracks, were it can contribute to freeze-thaw damage or undermining of the driveway.

New asphalt driveways should be allowed to age a year or so before applying a sealcoat. Generally a recoating is only needed every three years in most areas; however, in sunny, hot climates or where the driveway is subject to heavy traffic, more frequent application may be required. Whether a new or existing driveway, the appearance of fine cracks is a clue it is time to apply a sealcoat. The graying of a driveway’s surface is another indication the asphalt is drying out.

If you are ready for a little hard labor you can tackle sealcoating yourself, and should be able to do a good job provided you follow the manufacturer’s directions and use a premium grade product. When contemplating whether to do it yourself, getting an estimate from a professional sealcoating company may help in your decision.

A professional applied sealcoat may double your cost; however, certainly less time and effort on your part will be needed. In addition, the sealcoating and crack-filling products used by most professional applicators are often better than those available at home centers.

The basic choices are either an asphalt-based product (a byproduct of petroleum refining) or coal tar (a byproduct of coal processing). Most consumer-available sealers are water-based and contain fillers, additives and asphalt. But coal tar products are generally more durable and more resistant to oil or gasoline damage. From an environmental standpoint though, asphalt products are better because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

Product cost alone may not determine quality, as asphalt products can be more expensive depending on the amount of additives included. The best way to determine quality may be the length of the warranty. Better sealcoat products have a five to six-year pro-rated warranty

If you decide to do it on your own, make sure your back is up to it. The amount of product required will vary depending on the type, amount of sand fillers, and the condition of the driveway. Most estimates indicate five gallons will be needed for each 250 - 400 sq. ft.

Also, consider purchasing a few extra containers to make sure you can finish the job without interruption. Under estimating the amount needed is a common mistake, which can lead to trying to stretch it out too much and ending up with a less than uniform appearance and protection.

Before beginning, all cracks over 1/8 inch need to be filled with a crack filler compatible with the sealcoat product. Next, any spot residue from oil leaks or other contaminants need to be treated and the driveway needs to be power washed. Most manufacturers recommend a squeegee type applicator, however, a special brush may be needed at any rough areas.

While some homeowners like to recoat their driveway every year to keep up its appearance, frequent resealing won’t really provide much additional protection, and may actually lead to a buildup of the sealcoat that ends up cracking or peeling.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue.

Posted 01 June 10 10:06 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

Exclusive Buyer Agents

The end of winter signals the beginning of the busy real estate season and the National Association of Exclusive Buyer Agents (NAEBA) is renewing an effort to educate buyers about the various choices for agent representation in the home buying process. While most states in the United States require agencies to disclose relationships, buyers are not always clear about what those relationships mean.

“We believe it is important that home buyers understand their options so they will make the best choice when selecting an agent,” commented Benjamin Clark, 2010 President of NAEBA. “It is our mission to educate buyers on the advantages of using Exclusive Buyer Agencies and we want buyers to have that information before they sign a binding agreement with a real estate brokerage.”

A “buyer’s agent” is not always an Exclusive Buyer Agent (EBA). Agencies may have singular relationships, representing buyers or sellers only or they can be a dual agent that represents both sellers and buyers at the same time. Within a dual agency brokerage, there may be “buyer agents” but this differs from NAEBA (http://www.naeba.org) member companies where both company and agents exclusively represent buyers and never take listings. In fact dual agents and dual agency companies may represent buyer and seller in the same transaction, with written consent.

Michigan resident and recent home buyer, Darrell Perry, learned one of the potential pitfalls of using a dual agency. “Our first agent showed us homes in areas we did not want to live and that offered none of the features we required,” commented Perry. “He told us there were no houses in our price range in our preferred area. We later discovered he only showed us homes listed with his agency. We thought he was working for our best interests.”

Consumers who use an EBA can be certain that their partnership will be maintained throughout the purchase process. “We weren’t very familiar with the concept of an Exclusive Buyer’s Agent at the outset, but during the home buying process learned how valuable it can be to have our Realtor® looking out solely for our interests. The seller of the home we purchased commented that she wished that she had someone like our EBA on her side when she had bought the home,” said Utah home buyers, Jonathan and Laura Tanner.

Home buyers can learn more about Exclusive Buyer Agency and locate an Exclusive Buyer Agent at http://naeba.org.

Posted 19 May 10 07:54 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Market Conditions, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Housing Activity, Real Estate-Home Buying, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

Tankless Water Heaters

Popular in Europe and Japan for many years, “on-demand, tankless” water heaters are beginning to attract more attention in North America. Tankless heaters are relatively compact wall-mounted units, fueled either by gas or electricity, that are designed to produce hot water only when needed. When a hot water faucet is turned on at a household fixture, cold water begins to flow through coils in the unit and is instantaneously heated to a preset temperature, then distributed to the plumbing fixture.

When first introduced years ago, few builders or homeowners became interested because of their relatively high price and reliability problems. But the continuing escalation of fuel costs and the redesign of many units to eliminate some of the earlier problems has led to renewed interest, primarily in new construction, but for replacement of old or leaking conventional tank-type units as well. The key benefits touted in the marketing of these units are their energy efficiency, limited space requirements, and ability to supply hot water whenever needed.

While these units will supply hot water on demand, they are not designed for high water volume. Typically, tankless heaters provide adequate hot water at a normal water flow rate of 2 to 4 gallons per minute. They can provide adequate hot water as long as the draw through the system doesn't exceed design ratings. However, if there is a demand for hot water from many different fixtures at one time, a tankless heater may not be able to keep up. Hot water will continue to be produced however; the high volume will result in a lower supply temperature.

Most of these units also have a minimum operating flow rate and pressure. At very low flow rates, for example, less than 0.5 gallons a minute, the unit may stop producing hot water. The primary reason for this limitation is that it is difficult to maintain a safe water supply temperature at low water flow rates.

Undoubtedly, the reduced space need is a plus for almost all installations – not only because the unit takes up less physical space but because the smaller size provides options on placement in many different areas of a house that could not accommodate a large storage tank.

To meet an expected high demand, multiple tankless heaters can be installed at one central location, or several units can be distributed throughout the house. A tankless unit can also be used as an indirect heater by installing an insulated storage tank. The feasibility of this option, however, must be weighted against the cost of installing a conventional water heater.

When contemplating installing one of these units, homeowners must look at all the costs and benefits versus storage tank type units. Review specific manufacturer information and realize that, at least initially, switching to a tankless heater will likely mean some adjustments in hot water usage patterns.

Remember, these tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

Posted 29 March 10 09:49 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Technology, Product Reviews, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

CARBON MONOXIDE A HIDDEN HAZARD

What is Carbon Monoxide?
Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless, tasteless poisonous gas. When inhaled, it readily enters the bloodstream ultimately depriving the heart and brain of oxygen. Signs of CO poisoning include fatigue, headaches, dizziness, nausea, confusion and irritability. At lower levels of exposure, CO poison is often mistaken for the flu.

Who is at Risk?
Everyone is at risk, but the effects of CO exposure can vary greatly from person to person depending on age, overall health and the concentration and length of exposure. Infants, children, senior citizens and people with heart or lung problems are especially susceptible to CO poisoning.

Where Does Carbon Monoxide Come From?
CO is a by-product of the incomplete combustion of fossil fuels such as natural or liquefied petroleum (LP) gas, kerosene, oil, gasoline, wood and coal. Sources of CO in the home include heating systems, kitchen ranges and ovens, clothes dryers, water heaters, fireplaces and stoves. Other possible sources include motor vehicles, gas-powered tools and generators, and charcoal grills.

If the burners on heating systems and other equipment are properly adjusted and maintained, adequate air for combustion is provided, and the venting system is working properly, the likelihood of CO is reduced. But if burners are poorly adjusted, there is no combustion air, and/or the venting is faulty, lethal CO levels can develop, especially in a tightly-sealed house.

Starting a car while in a closed garage should never be done; but even with the door open there may be enough residual CO to seep into the house. Cooking with a gas range/oven also contributes to indoor CO levels. Ideally, external venting should be provided for the range to minimize the chance of a build-up of carbon monoxide.

Reducing the Hazard
To minimize CO concerns, all fuel-burning systems and venting provisions should be checked annually by a qualified professional, particularly when there are signs of system damage or other potential concerns,. It is also generally recommended that at least one CO alarm be installed in homes with fuel-burning appliances, fireplaces or attached garages. Specific placement guidelines vary, but sleeping areas are the first locations to consider. Additional units can be located in other areas for added protection.

CO Alarms
When purchasing a CO alarm, look for an Underwriters Laboratories (UL) listing on the label. Follow manufacturer installation and maintenance guidelines. Replace batteries at least annually and replace older units, as recommended by the manufacturer (typically when 5 to 7 years old). Also, when considering CO detector placement, don’t forget the need for regular testing of smoke/fire detectors and fire extinguishers.

What to Do if a Carbon Monoxide Detector/Alarm Goes Off?
Never ignore a sounding CO alarm. A CO alarm may indicate elevated levels of CO in the home, even if no one is experiencing symptoms. What needs to be done when an alarm sounds depends on whether or not anyone is feeling ill or obvious signs of a carbon monoxide source are present.

If no one is feeling ill:

Turn off all appliances and sources of combustion (e.g., furnace and fireplace).
Ventilate the house with fresh air by opening doors and windows.
Reset the alarm.
Call a qualified professional to investigate the source of the possible CO buildup before starting up any CO producing equipment.
Realize that the source of CO may be outside your house or apartment.

If illness is a factor or an alarm continues after possible sources of CO have been turned off:

Evacuate all occupants immediately.
Determine how many occupants are ill and determine their symptoms.
Call 911 or your local emergency number and when relaying information, include the number of people feeling ill.
Do not allow anyone to re-enter the home until it has been checked for CO or other hazards.
Call a qualified professional to repair or correct the source of the CO.

Posted 29 December 09 07:49 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Buyer Information, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

FALL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

Many areas have already had a taste of fall weather, and it’s not far behind for most others. Now is the time to make sure your house and heating system are ready for winter. Here is a brief checklist to guide you through some basic tasks before it is too late:

GROUNDS

Check window wells, dry wells and storm drains for debris or blockage.
Repair any driveway cracks and/or heaved or settled walkways.
Trim all trees and shrubs that are too close to the house.
Check (ideally during a rainstorm) for rainwater drainage away foundation.
Clean and put summer furnishings away.
Drain and store garden hoses.

EXTERIOR SURFACES

Check weathertightness of all exterior surfaces and components.
Check for deterioration of painted or finished areas. If too late for a full paint job, prime and touch-up bare wood surfaces.
Caulk and seal all joints in siding, around windows and doors.
Check and seal any foundation cracks.
Improve weatherstripping at exterior doors and windows as needed.
Reset storms and screens where required.
Look for any signs of insect or pest activity around the foundation and at wood components close to the ground.

ROOF (Use binoculars or hire a professional.)

Check for loose, damaged or missing roofing.
Check eave areas for signs of moisture build-up or damage.
Check the condition of chimneys.
Check flashings for signs of lifting or damage and repair as needed.
Check and clean all gutters (eavestroughs) and downspouts.

ATTIC

Check ventilation openings for nests or other blockage.
Check the position and condition of insulation for uniform coverage.
Look for any signs of excessive moisture or heat buildup.

INTERIOR ROOMS

Check all areas for signs of roof or plumbing leakage.
Have any fireplaces or wood stoves and flues checked and professionally cleaned.
Reset automatic timers for the change in daylight hours.
Check all smoke/carbon monoxide detectors. Replace batteries if over a year old.
Test Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters (GFCI’s) using built-in test buttons.

HEATING/COOLING SYSTEMS

Clean all elements of the cooling system.
Remove (or winterize) room air conditioners.
Follow manufacturer instructions for the maintenance of your heating system.
Change or clean heating system filters on warm air systems (now and regularly).
Check heating and cooling systems for any evidence of water leaks.
If present, clean and test the humidifier.
Have your heating system serviced annually by a qualified heating serviceperson before the heating season to keep it functioning efficiently and properly.

PLUMBING

Drain exterior water lines and open taps (in cold areas).
Insulate water lines that are subject to freezing.
Check the condition and temperature setting of the water heater. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the temperature setting.
Check the plumbing system and fixtures for any evidence of water leaks or blocked drains.
Confirm proper operation of any sump pumps and free flow of the drain line.

Posted 31 October 09 07:46 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Buyer Information, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

MANIFOLD PLUMBING SYSTEMS

MANIFOLD PLUMBING SYSTEMS

A new method for supplying hot and cold water to plumbing fixtures in homes is rapidly gaining greater acceptance by home builders and homeowners. Rather than the traditional method of running branch lines with many fittings and valves to each plumbing fixture, a manifold plumbing system has a central point for hot and cold water distribution, with individual lines running off of it. Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) piping is typically used with manifold systems.

PEX is a high-temperature, flexible, corrosion-resistant plastic pipe–not to be confused with polybutylene piping (PB). It is less labor intensive to install and makes use of mechanical connections, which eliminates the need for soldering. Its flexibility also makes it easier to install in both existing and new construction. PEX systems often stand out by the dark red and blue colored piping used by some manufacturers for the hot and cold water respectively.

Inappropriate comparisons of PEX to polybutylene piping (PB), which experienced problems with early generation systems in the 1970s and 1980s, has been somewhat of an obstacle to PEX’s general acceptance; but not all plastics are the same. While there have been problems with some fittings used for PEX pipe they generally have been more reliable than those used for the early PB systems. Also, current testing and installation requirements for PEX are much more stringent than when PB piping was first accepted and installed in housing.

While its use may still be locally restricted, it is currently approved for residential water supply systems in all model plumbing and mechanical codes across the United States and Canada. Expect to see more PEX piping in the future, particularly in new homes.

Posted 26 August 09 06:37 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, For Sale, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Home Buying, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

MOISTURE AND MOLD PREVENTION

When water leaks or spills occur indoors - act quickly. If wet or damp materials are removed or allowed to dry out within 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.

To avoid conditions that lead to mold:

Repair or reseal roof flashings when damaged or worn.
Clean gutters regularly.
Make sure the ground slopes away from your house foundation.
Pipe downspout water discharge points away from the foundation.
Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed.
Check the condition of all water piping, fittings, and fixtures periodically.
Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes, dryers to the outside.
Keep indoor humidity low. Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever showering or cooking for extended periods.
Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical.
Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
Add a moisture barrier over dirt floors in crawlspaces.
Make sure attics and crawlspaces are vented properly.
If you see condensation or moisture collecting on surfaces, act quickly to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source.

Posted 15 July 09 07:47 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

STORMS AND YOUR HOME INSURANCE COVERAGE

Following a disaster, many homeowners are stunned to discover their insurance doesn’t cover everything they lost – and sometimes doesn’t cover any of their losses. Now is the time to fine-tune your coverage -- before a disaster strikes. Many changes don’t take effect until after a 30-day waiting period.

Standard homeowner policies do not cover flood damage from rising water, whether it’s coastal flooding from a hurricane’s wind-whipped storm surge or inland flooding from heavy rains. Check to see if you live in a flood-prone area. If so, ask your insurance agent about the need for flood insurance. Some homeowners may qualify for the National Flood Insurance Program, depending on their home’s location.

Not all policies cover damage caused by wind or hail. Even if you are not in an area frequented by high wind and regular hail storms, you may want to consider this coverage. Your insurance agent can provide information on your current coverage as well as your options.

Standard policies usually limit payments on valuables such as jewelry, silverware, antiques, boats and guns, and computers. So if you’re a collector or have high value possessions, you may need to get a special endorsement to ensure reasonable protection.

If you live in a condominium, find out what coverage your condominium association provides. You will still need your own homeowner’s policy to cover any damage that may occur to your unit and its contents. Pay attention to your deductible or out-of-pocket expenses. Most policies have a higher deductible for hurricane damage.

Does your policy cover the replacement cost or depreciated value of your possessions? Most policies cover the “actual cash value,” or depreciated value, of personal belongings, which means you won’t get what you paid for your furniture, electronics and clothing if they’re ruined. It costs more to insure them for their replacement value, but you’ll have an easier time getting back on your feet.

If your home and possessions have increased in value or you’ve made improvements to your property in recent years, check your coverage limits. Consider increasing your coverage if the policy doesn’t cover the current value of your home and its contents. Many policies make automatic adjustments as replacement costs increase; even so, you need to make sure your policy keeps pace.

Make an itemized inventory of your belongings, including costs, purchase dates and serial numbers. Attach receipts to the inventory sheet. Your insurance company may require proof of the cost of any item for which you make a claim. Dated photos or videos of your possessions are also a good idea.

Keep a copy of insurance records in a safe deposit box or with a relative or friend. These records should include your insurance policy, inventory records and the phone numbers for your agent or insurance company for reporting claims. Upon receiving an evacuation notice, you should take insurance records stored at home with you.

If your property is damaged, hire only licensed and reputable workers, preferably from within your community. Beware of fly-by-night repair businesses that request payment before the work is done.

Posted 03 June 09 09:23 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Buyer Information, Buyer Information-Select Home Owners Insurance, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

Spring Maintenance Checklist

SPRING MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

GROUNDS

Check condition of driveways and walks.
Check window wells, dry wells and storm drains for blockage.
Check fencing conditions and gate operation.
Check retaining walls for cracks, bulges and leaning.
Check all landscaping; trim all bushes and trees.
Check all out-buildings, porches and patios.
Check for proper grading and drainage throughout property.
Check lawn sprinkler system operation.
Check all equipment in preparation of pool opening.
Check (during rainstorm) for drainage away from foundation.

SIDING AND CHIMNEYS

Check all surfaces for damage or deterioration.
Check caulking at all joints.
Treat or paint worn or exposed wood components.
Check condition of masonry chimneys and vents.
Check foundation for settlement, cracks and spalling.

WINDOWS AND DOORS

Check for damaged screens or broken glass.
Check weatherstripping, caulking, and window putty.
Check for frame decay or damage.
Clean and install screens.

ROOFS

Check for loose, damaged or missing roofing.
Check fascia and soffit for signs of leaks/moisture build-up.
Check all flashings for fit and seals.
Check television antenna or satellite dish mounting.
Check and clean all gutters (eaves troughs) and downspouts.
Clean fungi or algae from roof surfaces.

PORCH AND PATIO

Check all wooden supports and railing components.
Check flooring for wear or damage.
Apply preservative to wood decking and components.
Seal patios at foundation.

INSECT INFESTATION

Check for signs of termite, ant or other insect activity.
Check for insect damage.
Arrange for treatment or repair.

INTERIOR AREAS

Check attic, ceilings and walls for evidence of leaks.
Check ventilation openings for nests, or other blockage.
Check condition of all painted or finished walls and trim.
Check carpet and flooring for wear or damage.
Check condition of all stairs and railings.
Check condition and operation of all windows and doors.
Test smoke/fire alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.

SLAB/FOUNDATION

Check for cracks or breaks in wall.
Check for evidence of water infiltration or dampness.
Check for decaying sills and window frames.
Check for signs of termite, ant or other insect activity.
Check for changes in framing conditions.
Check crawlspace ventilation, insulation, and vapor retarders.
Test, clean and lubricate sump pump.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Assess power distribution for overloads issues.
Check condition of incoming service wire and supports.
Test circuit breakers and label all circuits at panel.
Test arc-fault and ground-fault circuit-interrupters (regularly).
Check circuits for over-fusing.
Check all receptacles and switches.
Check operation of vent and/or attic fans.

HEATING/COOLING SYSTEMS

Follow manufacturer instructions for HVAC systems.
Inspect and install room air conditioners.
Clean all serviceable elements of heating system.
Change or clean heating system filter (regularly).
Check venting systems for corrosion and leaks.
Clean and de-energize humidifier.
Check and lubricate attic fan.

PLUMBING SYSTEM

De-winterize and check exterior faucets.
Check well and components.
Check septic tanks and systems.
Check water and waste piping for leaks.
Check hot water supply temperature.
Follow manufacturer instructions for water heater.

KITCHEN/BATHROOMS

Check condition and operation of all appliances.
Clean and change range fan filters.
Check all toilet flush mechanisms.
Check and repair all leaking faucets and valves.
Caulk and grout tile at tubs and showers.
Clean aerators and shower head.

Does your home need a check up? Contact your local HouseMaster office and schedule a home inspection to help you organize your maintenance needs.

Posted 28 April 09 06:38 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, House Inspections, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

SPRING ROOF MAINTENANCE

The cold weather and storms of the winter season can wreak havoc on the exterior of a home and the surrounding property. Sometimes it isn’t that there is significant damage, but simply the fact that it may have been several months since you last paid attention to or attempted any outdoor maintenance.

Now is the time to do a winter-end check to make sure everything is in order and your home is ready to withstand those spring-time showers and the pending heat of summer.

While all exterior areas should be checked periodically, one area that typically requires special attention at the end of the winter season is the roof. To identify possible roofing concerns, look for:

Ceiling stains – A possible warning sign that your roof system needs repair or replacement. If localized, it may be an isolated point of damage or a flashing leak. Ceiling stains can also be associated with excessive attic moisture and/or ice dam conditions, which may require additional attic ventilation and/or insulation to prevent a recurrence. If there are stains on lower level ceilings, a plumbing leak could be the cause.
Loose or missing shingles – Any loose or missing shingles should be repaired or replaced immediately to avoid additional leakage and damage to the roof deck or interior of your home.
Loose, lifted or cracked flashing – This is the sheet metal or other type membrane found at the base of chimneys and roof penetrations. Damaged flashing should be repaired or replaced to prevent leakage. Any open gaps should be sealed with roof cement.
Lifted or curled shingles – This may be an indication the roof is worn and at or near the end of its service life, or, at the very least, makes it conducive to wind damage. If found just in an isolated area, spot replacement may be possible, but if widespread, get a professional opinion on the roof’s condition.
Heavy granule buildup in gutters or at base of downspouts – The granules on roof shingles gradually wear away to the point where the underlying material is exposed over large areas. Once this happens the rate of shingle deterioration accelerates. If granule loss is excessive, it may indicate aging shingles that need replacement.

Any roof maintenance check should also include gutter cleaning. This is an areas often not paid attention to until an overflow creates problems. Gutters need to be checked year-round to help avoid expensive water damage to the siding or house structure. Extensions or splash blocks at downspouts help divert water away from the house, avoiding soil erosion and infiltration through basement or crawlspace walls.

If you have questions on your roof system, consider utilizing the services of a professional home inspector or qualified roofing contractor to determine conditions.

Posted 03 April 09 10:53 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

Pros and Cons of Duct Cleaning

PROS AND CONS OF DUCT CLEANING

According to the (NADCA), National Air Duct Cleaners Association, a professional association based in Washington, D.C., air duct cleaning is a buyer-beware service. Some companies promoting duct cleaning may be either bait and switch operations or companies that do inferior jobs with unprofessional equipment.

Any professional cleaner would question a company that employ only shop-vac sized machines with a single 2-inch hose. To do a good job, powerful machines mounted in specially equipped vehicles with varying types of hoses and attachments will be needed in most cases to adequately reach all duct areas.

But even if the technician is prepared, the above information begs the question: “Is air duct cleaning really worthwhile?” You can check some of your own ducts with a mirror and a flashlight. Unscrew several of your wall or floor vents and, using your mirror, look into the ducts.

If there aren’t any large deposits of dust, dirt or mold, or if no one in your home suffers allergies or asthma, having air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary, according to advice provided by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Also, just because you have dirty return grilles doesn’t mean you have dirty ducts. It’s normal for dust-laden air to be pulled through the grates leaving telltale black streaks that can often be easily vacuumed or cleaned at the return.

The NADCA notes that ducts are more likely to need cleaning under the following circumstances:

The home has been remodeled.
Water has damaged the home.
There are four-leg pets.
Someone smokes.
Your carpeting is old.

According to industry experts, in cases where there are truly dirty ducts in a 2,000-square foot house, duct cleaners may fill three grocery sacks with dirt and debris. Expect to pay $250-500 for a typical home’s duct cleaning by a qualified professional. Larger homes with a more extensive duct system will cost proportionately more.

If duct cleaning is done improperly, or needlessly, the outcome can do more harm than good. Disturbing a basically intact and inert dust layer and then not removing the residue creates air borne contaminants that might not otherwise have been a problem. Homeowners should seek the advice and information on the pros and cons of duct cleaning before hiring a contractor.

The EPA advises that a professional cleaning should include:

Opening duct access points to allow the entire system to be inspected and cleaned.
Use of only high-efficiency particle (HEPA) air vacuuming equipment.
Protection of the carpeting and household furnishings during cleaning.
Use of well-controlled brushing equipment with powerful vacuums to dislodge dust and other particles.
Taking care to protect ductwork including sealing and re-insulating any access holes.

Fore more information on duct cleaning visit the EPA website: www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html

Posted 28 March 09 10:21 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 2 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Home Buying, Real Estate Home Safety, House Inspections, Conservation, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, House Safety, Home in Myrtle Beach, Homes in Brunswick County, NC, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

Stimulus Bill First Time Home Buyer Tax Credit

A first time homebuyer tax credit has been signed into law as part of the Stimulus Package that was created by President Obama. There are many questions as well as many misconceptions that are floating around regarding this legislation In this month's article I am going to try to clear up some of those questions.

The tax credit in this stimulus plan is for first-time homebuyers only. The Bill had several changes throughout the negotiation process in Congress, some of which included all home buyers. In the final Bill the tax credit applies only to first-time home buyers. You may ask who qualifies as a first-time homebuyer and the answer is any family unit who has not owned a home as a Principle Residence within the past three years.

The tax credit in the 2009 stimulus package does not have to be repaid. This differs from the first-time home buyer tax credit that was in place in late 2008. In the 2008 plan, the credit was an interest free loan and it had to be repaid within 15 years. In both plans, the home buyer must keep this home as their primary residence for at least 3 years or they may face recapture of the tax credit amount.

In the 2009 tax credit, the amount of credit that you receive is equal to 10% of the purchase price with a maximum credit amount of $8,000. There is a distinct difference between tax credits versus tax deductions. In a tax credit, the credit is a dollar for dollar amount that is paid against the taxes that are owed. A tax deduction is a reduction in the amount of gross income by that amount. Basically, the credit is post tax and the deduction is pretax. A bonus in this year's tax credit is that the credit is refundable. Meaning, if you do not owe taxes larger than the amount of credit that you are receiving, then you will receive a check for the difference.

Another common question is the time frame in which you must purchase a home to qualify for this tax credit. You must purchase a principle residence between January 1, 2009 and December 1, 2009. If you purchased a home in 2008, then you will be subject to the laws which were in place at that time.

Is there a maximum amount of income that you can make to qualify for this tax credit? The answer is yes. If you are a single tax payer and your Modified Adjusted Gross Income is less than $75,000 then you qualify. If you are married and file jointly then the total Modified Adjusted Gross Income must be less than $150,000. There are some provisions for partial tax credit if you make more than the amounts listed above.

If you would like to research more information on your own, one of the best websites that I have found to help answer questions regarding this tax credit is http://www.federalhousingtaxcredit.com/ . This site has been created by the National Association of Home Builders. Contact your tax advisor for specific advice on how this credit may apply to you.

This information is for general guidance only. The information in this article does not constitute the provision of legal advice, tax advice, accounting services, investment advice, or professional consulting of any kind nor should it be construed as such. The information provided herein should not be used as a substitute for consultation with professional tax, accounting, legal, or other competent advisers.

Posted 09 March 09 06:31 by Nadine and Ron Cybyske, ABR® | 0 Comments
Filed under Real Estate, Finances, Buyer Information, Real Estate-Home Buying, Myrtle Beach , Brunswick County, Home in Myrtle Beach, NC Real Estate, Homes in Brunswick County, Myrtle Beach Real Estate

Fall House Maintenance

FALL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST